My personal history with Puglia began in San Vito about ten years ago. I was traveling with friends — three small children between us — and we were staying in a masseria not far from Bari. After settling into our apartments, we wanted to head straight to the sea, and our host recommended San Vito.
Just a few minutes north of the famous clifftop town of Polignano a Mare lies this tiny, quietly enchanting seaside hamlet. Most travelers speed past it on the S.S. 16 on their way from Bari to Polignano, never realizing that one of the most peaceful corners of Puglia is waiting just around the bend.
Although I had been traveling around Italy for nearly a decade by then, I felt immediately that this was something entirely different — the beginning of a new chapter. San Vito, and that first trip to Puglia, was a turning point. Since then, most of my work has been connected to Southern Italy.
We spent a slow, dreamy afternoon in the bay. The water in the old quarry is shallow, perfect for small kids to splash around and chase tiny crabs. There’s also a little beach where adults can enjoy a quiet swim.
What makes San Vito so irresistible is its gentle simplicity. There’s no long list of attractions to check off here, and that’s precisely the charm. At the heart of the village stands the Abbazia di San Vito, a centuries-old Benedictine abbey with golden stone walls that glow at sunset. Perched right on the water, the abbey looks almost theatrical — like a film set that hasn’t quite realized how beautiful it is.
A stroll around its courtyard and the small marina offers that effortless mix of history and salty sea air that Puglia does so well. The abbey is now private property, so if you'd like to visit the courtyard, you’ll need to go on a Sunday, when the doors open for morning mass.
San Vito is also a lovely place for a wander. A short stretch of waterfront is lined with small cafés and seafood trattorias where the menus are handwritten, the fish is local, and the atmosphere is wonderfully laid-back. I recommend La Veranda di Giselda for a coffee break — I always leave with a little paper bag filled with their grapejam pastries.
If you’re lucky, you might see fishermen coming in with the day’s catch, unloading crates of octopus, sea bream and tiny prawns. I often meet Domenico, one of the local fishermen, and I love spending time with him and his friends. They’re always busy — catching octopus, painting their boats — yet never in a rush. They’re happy to chat and always let me take photos. Sitting with local fishermen, breathing in the Adriatic breeze, and listening to the soft clink of the boats is one of my favourite things in life.
San Vito is also home to farmers who work the fields by the sea. An elderly gentleman sells his fruit and vegetables under the fig tree, right next to the abbey.
San Vito invites slow exploration. You can walk or cycle along the coast to Polignano a Mare, following a scenic path above the sea with sweeping views of white cliffs and hidden coves. Or you can continue north toward the fishing village of Cozze for a more rural, coastal atmosphere.
Even better, you can take a boat tour from San Vito to Polignano and its caves — the best way to see Polignano if you want to avoid the crowds. Whenever I’m in the area with a group, I book a tour with Giuseppe. Polignano seen from the water is truly stunning, and you can enter several sea caves and even swim off the boat.
Many years ago, we were walking around San Vito, chatting with a local man — a different Giuseppe — who was showing us a crab. We were with a small group, and it turned out to be an especially hot day. So I asked, “Giuseppe, do you happen to have a boat?” He replied, “No, but my cousin Giuseppe has one.” Two hours later we were sitting on the boat with a glass of prosecco in hand, enjoying the Puglian sun and the view of this incredible coastline.
That’s how things work in Puglia, and in much of Southern Italy. It’s all about who you know. My WhatsApp is full of numbers from people I’ve met along the way — or friends of friends. A whole network of locals who are always there for me and for my clients.
What I love most about San Vito is the stillness it offers in contrast to bustling Polignano. Here, Puglia reveals itself in its softest form: the rhythm of boats coming and going, the hum of conversation drifting from a café terrace, the scent of sea salt and wild herbs carried on the wind. If you’re looking for a place to ease into your Puglian adventure, or simply slow down between bigger sightseeing days, San Vito is the perfect choice.
Sometimes the smallest places leave the biggest impressions. San Vito is one of them.
